Greece: From Islands to the Athenian Past
Greece — birthplace of western civilization, origin of mythologies, and a mesmerizing gem in the Mediterranean. I’ve long been enchanted by the Aegean, which somehow left an impression of romance and beauty in my mind. Images of glimmering blue ocean and white-marble buildings. Well, let me tell you, it’s all very much real.
Planning
Angela and I decided on Greece as a destination for two factors. One, the desire to see somewhere new in Europe at the tail-end of my work trip in London. Two, the desire to relax. While Turkey and Jordan were high on our list, the questionable stability in that region precluded them as options. Greece is beautiful, new, and relaxing.
After some research, we narrowed down to three islands: Santorini, Paros, and Mykonos. Two of those are “must see” islands, and one was highly recommended by a local friend (thanks Lucas!). Of course, no first trip to Greece would be complete without paying homage in Athens. And hence, our itinerary was set:
- Santorini (3 nights)
- Paros (2 nights)
- Mykonos (2 nights)
- Athens (2 nights)
It turned out timing couldn’t have been more perfect. October 1 marks the beginning of low season across the Greek Islands: prices are markedly lower, and tourist crowds smaller. The weather was still perfectly warm during the day, and water temperature is swimmable.
Santorini
Santorini is truly iconic, beautiful, and amazingly photogenic.
We arrived at night after a day of traveling at night. Who knew intra-European travel can take so long! I must admit — Santorini, or any island for that matter, is not impressive at night. After all, the ocean is a vast swath of darkness.
After settling in at our cave, we scavenged for the first taste of Greek food. A taverna (a casual restaurant) just down the street was more than satisfying. Eggplant moussaka, check. Fish, check. Olive oil everything, check.
Santorini is special among Greek islands for its settlement around a caldera. Houses are built along the cliff, rather than on flat land. As a result, most houses are actually cave houses built into the cliff. A big benefit is that many more houses now have unobstructed ocean view.
Our accommodation is built in a traditional cave house architecture. It’s actually a really neat concept. After dinner, we settled into the lovely outdoor tub. A perfect way to spend an evening in the late summer night.
Waking up the next morning is the most beautiful experience.
The ocean is a funny thing. At night, it’s this mystical, menacing entity, darkness. But when the sun rises the next day, it is beautiful, full of life.
Breakfast is served on the balcony, overlooking the Santorini caldera, deep blue waters, marble white buildings all around, and a gastronomic delight. Need I say more? This is paradise.
Cross-town hike
Our only true physical activity was the hike from Imerovigli to Oia, which took close to four hours. We took a detour to an unnamed rock right outside Imerovigli, which featured a steep climb and panoramic view of villages in Santorini. From afar, Santorini almost seemed a snow-capped mountain, with the blindingly white buildings at the apex.
The hike reminded me of Cinque Terre in Italy, where stretches of wilderness, dotted by a church here and there, connect villages along the seaside.
We ended in Amoubi Bay, a small fishing village at the foothill of the bustling Oia. It’s a fitting end, from the highest village in Santorini to the lowest, and from tourism central to a humble fishing town (well, also touristy). Amoudi Bay is quiet: a few restaurants, a dozen or so fishing boats, painted by color and a passion for the sea. Here, we had the most amazing and fresh traditional Greek grilled octopus. If terroir ever applied to food, the octopus did an admirable job highlighting Greece.
Santorini has a special charm. Beyond Oia, which is by far the most iconic of all villages, the island has a rich blend of attractions and activities. We rented a car for one day, which was pleasantly sufficient for a compact place. Pyrgos, a traditional inland village, offered some of the best food we’ve had in Greece at Selene: fresh food beautifully prepared, knowledgeable and hospitable staff, local olive oil and balsamic, and an amazing dessert.
On the southern tip of the island in Akrotiri, a lighthouse provides a completely different view of the caldera, an especially quiet spot to watch ferries depart and the sun set. Our three days in Santorini flew by in a blink. I’ll leave with one last picture of this beautiful island at night.
Paros
Compared to its more renowned siblings, Paros is an undiscovered little gem in the Cyclades. Boatloads of tourists pass by it everyday on the high-speed ferry that connects Santorini with Mykonos, making a quick 5 minute stop; maybe a couple dozen people will get off the boat. I’m so glad we were two of the few that did get off, for Paros left the biggest pleasant surprise on this trip.
Admittedly an afterthought to our trip, Paros absolutely stunned me with its natural beauty and charm.
Low season on Santorini means fighting a smaller crowd for sunset at Oia. Low season on Paros, on the other hand, means secluded beaches, empty villages, and incredibly low prices in Paros.
We rented an extraordinarily modern apartment, with both a balcony overlooking the bay, and a rooftop terrace. The owner Pavlos (Greek for Paul) couldn’t have been more genuinely hospitable. He exuded the small town aura, greeting every shop owner along the way with a big smile.
Relaxing by the Aegean sea
Paros is known for its beaches: most are sandy and calm, with a few that have the perfect environment for windsurfing.Of the many beaches we went to, most had a handful of locals enjoying the sun. Two beaches, Ag. Georgios on Antiparos and Santa Maria on Paros, were completely empty. What a big contrast from Santorini!
At night, we lounged on the rooftop terrace with a bottle of Greek wine and a dozen candles. Staring into the darkness, we marveled at the vastness of the ocean, and relaxed.
Mykonos
Truth be told, I was excited about Mykonos; beach parties sounded awesome. It’s too bad that I got a serious case of food poisoning the first night, which chained me to bed. Nevertheless, there were two highlights:
- The hotel is amazing. I appreciate the hotel a lot more, when 90% of my time on the island was spent there. There are many great things about this hotel, but the best is its private beach. It’s such a luxury to have beach chair and umbrella service included.
- Mykonos has some amazing art galleries. The leading one is by far Rarity Gallery, but all around the town is filled with arts. It is the most upscale of the islands we’ve visited, and I can imagine it’s the playground of the wealthy in peak summer.
Maybe one day, I’ll be back to see it for all it offers.
Athens
Our final stop on the trip was Athens, to see ancient Athens and walk around various neighborhoods. I realized my knowledge of Greek history and mythology was lacking. I wish I were able to understand the stories that underlie the ancient Greek civilization and the history of this time era better.
Luckily, we started exploring the Acropolis with a stop at the Acropolis Museum. Among countless ancient artifacts, there is a helpful video that detailed the construction of Acropolis and Parthenon. It set the right context for visiting the historical marvel.
It’s incredible to think that Athens, over 2500 years ago, developed such an advanced civilization across all areas. The Acropolis is the epitome of its wealth and significance in the ancient world, but Athens’ impact ranged from democracy, to philosophy, to science, and beyond. Many of the scientific discoveries made at the time were not re-discovered again until the Renaissance, more than 10 centuries later.
Besides the ancient sites, though, Athens underwhelmed us. Its streets were unfortunately smoggy, service mediocre, and generally chaotic.
Observations
A few things stood out on this trip:
- Political undercurrent is definitely present. A couple pieces of street art stood out strikingly.
- Everything about Greece is so sweet. Honey, Santorini wine (Vinsanto), candies, Greek liquor (Ouzu, Metaxa), Greek coffee prepared traditionally.
- Greek locals are incredibly casual, free, and nice. The best taste of this we got was on Paros, particularly at Aegean Deli. Tourism industry, not so much.
Recommendations — How you can do it too
SANTORINI — Accommodation: Aliko Suites. Food: *Selene, Lucky’s Souvlaki, Taverna Katina*. Activities: Hike to Oia, Donkey ride to Amoudi Bay, See caldera from the lighthouse, Sunset at Oia (yes, it’s touristy; yes, it’s still worth it).
PAROS— Accommodation: Villa Kastro. Food: *Aegean Deli, Apollon Garden*. Beaches: Aliki, Santa Maria, Golden Beach, Molos, Kalogeros, Ag. Georgios (Antiparos).
MYKONOS— Accommodation: Mykonos Grand Hotel. Attraction: *Little Venice, Rarity Gallery*.
ATHENS— Accommodation: New Hotel. Food: Χυμοποιείο (fresh juice bar). Ancient Sites: Acropolis, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Ancient Agora, Acropolis Museum. Activities: *Walk to Athens Central Market* (north of Monastiraki), Shop around Kolonaki, Al fresco dining in the Plaka.